Raise Your Hat
NJAL EXCLUSIVE: Keep Your Head and Your Hat with Stephen Jones
Fashion thrives on ideas, the new, the original, the outrageous, and each of these need a crown, a top hat, or something to set it off and make it totally unique. For inventiveness and expertise Stephen Jones leads the way – and is considered the fashion industry’s most radical, respected, imaginative and nicest milliner, showcasing his own collections at London Fashion Week for over three decades, creating the crowning glory for over 25 years at Christian Dior, for women and men, and working with Schiaparelli, Thom Browne, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano.
From the Blitz Kids and club scene of the 80s to haute couture Stephen Jones is the best person to go to for advice, so in between Menswear and Haute Couture, Camilla Morton asked Stephen Jones for his advice to share with NJAL, and what he would say to creatives starting out today.
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
FIRST ADVICE
Stephen Jones: "Remember that your design is just one part of it; there are many, many different aspects, which you can control, but other people can control as well. Be aware you have to be a team player, even if you don’t even know who your team is yet."
WHAT DID YOU LEARN IN YOUR FIRST YEAR OF BUSINESS?
Stephen Jones: "Remember to sleep."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
HOW DID YOU PUSH PAST THE CHALLENGES TO CREATE?
Stephen Jones: "The challenge is to select not to create. You can always have good ideas but are they the right ones?"
WHAT CRUCIAL LESSON HAVE YOU LEARNED THE HARD WAY THAT YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN?
Stephen Jones: "That sometimes the most trustworthy people, are actually untrustworthy and that sometimes the most untrustworthy people are the most trustworthy."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
DO YOU HAVE A CREATIVE ROUTINE?
Stephen Jones: "Not really, but I live."
Stephen Jones is always busy, working, traveling, exploring, seeing and meeting people. It’s impossible to know how many hats he wears – from hisown workroom to collaborating with Creative Directors and brands, from PR to sales, shows to showroom, VIPs to upcoming and emerging talent. Everyone wants to work with the best, but you can’t be everything to everyone.
HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE THE NO'S?
Stephen Jones: "It all depends on if people are saying ‘no’ to you, or you are saying ‘no’ to people. If people are saying ‘no’ to you, if you want something you just need to find another way… Turn those ‘no’s’ into ‘yes’s’. If you are saying no to someone, be aware that you are possibly shutting down a method of communication."
HOW DO YOU KEEP THE HUMOR AND ORIGINALITY IN WHAT YOU DO?
Stephen Jones: "The humor - because it’s fashion! Isn’t it supposed to cheer you up?! The originality - I’m never that concerned about being original but I would hate to copy someone’s work."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM THE EARLIER COLLECTIONS?
Stephen Jones: "People want to dream at a good price."
... AND HOW WOULD YOU ADVISE NEW LABELS TO STAY TRUE TO THEIR COLLECTIONS?
Stephen Jones: "I think it’s important to dress your peer group, not a fantasy customer because if they stop wearing it, you probably are making the wrong thing."
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO ASPIRING MILLINERS?
Stephen Jones: "You have got to do it your way and forget everybody else."
HOW WOULD YOU KEEP YOUR VISION UNIQUE?
Stephen Jones: "Everybody’s vision is a reflection of themselves and everybody on this planet is unique."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
HOW IMPORTANT IS MADE TO MEASURE?
Stephen Jones: "Made-to-measure is wonderful because you can make somebody feel good or comfortable and really interpret their character or wishes into what you are creating."
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY?
Stephen Jones: "I understand quality absolutely, but sometimes quality is not necessary. Sometimes a bacon sandwich is more delicious than haute cuisine."
HOW CAN FASHION BE MADE MORE SUSTAINABLE AND CONTRIBUTE TO MORE MINDFUL CONSUMPTION?
Stephen Jones: "Obviously by buying less, but fast fashion has its place for those people who have very limited incomes. Go to charity shops like Oxfam, fashion is about being creative, being inspiring, and that shouldn’t be limited to price tag or compromise on your principles."
HOW DID YOU ENSURE YOU STOOD OUT AND WERE "NOT JUST ANOTHER LABEL"?
Stephen Jones: "By being a milliner, not a fashion designer."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
WHAT IS THE SOUNDTRACK TO YOUR SOUL?
Stephen Jones: "'It’s In His Kiss’ by Cher! (The Shoop Shoop song). *Laughs* No, it changes every day. Yesterday it was ‘Little Fluffy Clouds’ by the Orb the remix."
WHAT MUSIC DO YOU LISTEN TO WHEN CREATING?
Stephen Jones: "I don’t, because my hats would look too much like the music, for example if it’s Spanish music, everything has carnations in it; if I listen to disco music my hats will have glitter on them."
DO YOU HAVE A CREATIVE RITUAL?
Stephen Jones: "Yes, somewhat to mess it up… The creative ritual is that I always aim to be parked on my sofa with a cup of coffee, but in reality it never happens like that, but I get there eventually."
COURTESY OF STEPHEN JONES
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO KEEP A HAT ON WHEN DANCING OR JUGGLING ALL OF LIFE'S CHALLENGES?
Stephen Jones: "Physically and metaphorically it should stay on by itself, but sometimes just look in the mirror and check it’s on at the right angle for that moment. Sometimes a slip to a jaunty dip fits the mood so just keep on dancing!"
